It was Saturday night and we wanted to see what Mostar’s nightlife was all about. “See”, because the night before we had already heard a good deal from our hostel room, so we imagined that on a Saturday night the streets to be packed with partygoers. Well, they were … empty. A few tourists going back home after dinner, some older men scattered about the cafés – that was it. Where were the bars? Had we just missed the party zone? We looked and walked and searched – but nothing. Not even a remote hint of an establishment that was reminiscent of a bar. Disappointed, we started heading back towards the hostel. When we heard the sounds of a live band from … yes, from a real bar! We were ecstatic. The bar was spread out over three floors, narrow spiral staircases leading from one floor to another. The band, four men in their 50s that seemed slightly drunk, was playing on the second floor with a cheering and singing crowd around them. We found the last free table on the last floor. It seemed like the perfect place for having one or two drinks before heading back to the hostel. Four hours and several drinks later, we found ourselves with our table companions, a British lad and a Polish girl, on the second floor playing, singing, clapping and dancing with the band and their friends that were so thrilled that we had joined their party that they ended up paying for all our drinks. Their tables were heavy under the glasses and bottles, the room foggy from the cigarette smoke, the wooden floor vibrating from the music and the dancing. Finally, at 4 AM we stumbled out of the bar, still not quite sure how all of this had happened. For our new Bosnian friends, it was probably just another typical Saturday night in Mostar.